Kiyama (Kyoto, Japan) – March 2025
I recently had the pleasure of dining at Kiyama and wanted to share my experience, especially since there have been several reviews on this subreddit. Exciting news for food photography enthusiasts: Kiyama now permits photos! I’m not sure when this change occurred, but it caught the attention of other diners as well.
Kiyama is situated in a quaint building just a stone’s throw from the Kyoto Imperial Palace, spanning two floors. My wife and I had a cozy lunch seating at the second-floor counter, which accommodates 10 guests—half tourists and half locals. We made our reservations through Pocket Concierge, where we had the option of two kaiseki lunch courses: the 14,520 yen menu and the 30,250 yen menu (with possible additional charges based on market rates). We opted for the more elaborate offering.
English menus were provided (as shown in the last two photos), and we were also tempted by a grilled Karasumi (Dried Mullet Roe) Mochi supplement, which we happily added. For the rice course, there was a choice of five dishes, and you could specify the portion size, with most guests sampling all five.
The meal showcased an impressive range of flavors and cooking techniques. Kiyama-san’s approach emphasizes subtlety, so the dishes are not heavily seasoned. Overall, the meal was well prepared. While nothing blew me away, I particularly enjoyed the crab cake starter, the soup made from freshly shaved bonito, the sawada in the sashimi, the grilled butterfish, and the wild duck crepe reminiscent of Peking duck (made with soba flour). Of the rice offerings, the anago egg rice and the baby sardines with sansho were exceptional. The only disappointments were the steamed oyster and rice, which lacked flavor and leaned more towards ginger than oyster, and the dessert, which left something to be desired.
Our entire meal lasted just over 2.5 hours, but it felt pleasantly paced. I appreciated watching the bonito being shaved and prepared into dashi right before us. The service was outstanding; the staff was attentive and accommodating to my pregnant wife, explaining each dish in English. The atmosphere was surprisingly warm and homely, largely thanks to Kiyama-san’s friendly and jovial demeanor. His constant smiling and laughter with the guests added to the inviting vibe.
Kiyama-san doesn’t spend the entire meal at the counter, as he has another station downstairs, requiring him to make frequent trips up and down the stairs. However, he was present for about 50% of our meal, personally preparing the bonito dashi, slicing fish for the sashimi course, and conducting the matcha ceremony at the end. In between, he interacted with all guests, ensuring everyone was having a wonderful experience.
In summary, Kiyama delivered a satisfying meal and an excellent overall experience. I highly recommend it if you’re looking for an easily bookable kyo-kaiseki option.
Score: 4.25 / 5
Cost Performance: 3.5 / 5 – With the addition of the Karasumi Mochi, our total meal cost (considering market pricing) was 35,250 yen per person, excluding drinks.
Reservation Difficulty: Very Easy. Kiyama has multiple counters, making it easier to find seats. I booked via Pocket Concierge and secured reservations with ease a week in advance.
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