Otowa Restaurant (Tabelog Bronze 4.33) Utsunomiya – February 2025
My final stop in the Tohoku region before heading back to Tokyo was Otowa Restaurant, an esteemed French dining establishment located approximately 20 minutes by bus or 10 minutes by taxi from Utsunomiya Station. The restaurant prides itself on using seasonal ingredients sourced from the Tochigi region, skillfully prepared using classic French techniques that Chef Otowa honed in France under the mentorship of the celebrated chef Alain Chapel. Interestingly, Chef Otowa’s eldest son serves as the head chef, while his younger son manages the restaurant.
Upon arrival, the restaurant’s large building stands out from typical Japanese eateries. Guests are welcomed into a waiting area adorned with displays and videos showcasing the restaurant and elements of French cuisine. As I was escorted to my table, I caught a glimpse of the immaculate kitchen, where the kitchen brigade was hard at work. The dining room featured high ceilings and upscale decor, and I noticed I was the only foreign guest among a full house.
The service was exceptional, with the staff seamlessly coordinating their efforts, resembling a perfectly choreographed routine. They were all friendly, and many spoke fluent English. During my meal, Chef Otowa himself came by to greet me and inquire about my dining experience.
For dinner, I opted for the Menu Relais & Châteaux, along with an additional cheese course, bringing my total to ¥25,500. A standout dish was the abalone pie, which soared in popularity thanks to social media buzz, according to my waitress. It was rich in umami flavor, with perfectly cooked abalone wrapped in flaky pastry. Other memorable dishes included the trumpet cappuccino, lobster, and Tochigi wagyu. The cappuccino, perfectly seasoned, was especially comforting on a chilly evening, while the wagyu was incredibly tender. The accompanying sauces complemented the meat beautifully. The dessert was a stunning presentation, featuring fresh ingredients, meringue, and crème anglaise that balanced perfectly. While the amadai fish looked visually appealing, its flavor was less remarkable. The wine selection was extensive; I chose a glass to pair with my steak. The entire meal spanned about two hours, and as I was leaving, the head chef came out to bid farewell, gifting me some sweets for the road and a food guide, a second copy of which I had already received during my Hokkaido visit.
Overall, I concluded my Tohoku culinary journey on a high note. While the quality of service and cuisine rivals that of Tokyo’s French restaurants, I felt it slightly lagged behind spots like EsQUISSE or Sezanne. Given its proximity to Tokyo, I could see myself returning for another visit, though I wouldn’t classify it as a must-visit. I look forward to dining here again during my next Tohoku trip.
Dinner Course Included:
1. Black trumpet cappuccino
2. Lemon syrup bonbon & smoked yashiomasu salmon tart
3. Lobster with carrot and lemon puree
4. Tochigi salad: warm root vegetables, potatoes, leaf salad, and nasu farm cheese dressing
5. Abalone pie, wrapped in scallop mousse and seaweed, served with dashi and abalone sauce
6. Amadai fish with breaded scales and chrysanthemum sauce
7. Tochigi wagyu with red wine poivre sauce, fig jam, chestnut sauce, and beet tart with lentils
8. Cheese platter featuring four types, crackers, honey, and dried fruit (add-on)
9. Floating island: meringue, crème anglaise, Tochigi strawberries, and coconut mousse
10. Pistachio macaron, dark chocolate, cream choux, and strawberry jelly served with tea.
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